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— by Wilder Shaw: If you’ve ever unwrapped a gift, you know the familiar pangs of excitement that go along with each pull of the wrapping from tamales, or bungkus, Balinese-style rice wrapped in banana leaves. If you’re Balinese and living in Los Angeles, it feels familiar because though you’ve searched high and low for a proper bungkus, you’ve probably come up empty-handed…

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