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— by Jessica Henderson: In some respects, it’s easy to understand why udon, the Japanese white-flour noodle, has never approached the popularity or the ubiquity of ramen, or even of soba. It’s thick and dense; it can be gummy, rubbery; it does not seem especially healthy. In the past few years, a small flurry of house-made-udon shops have opened in New York, among them TsuruTonTan, a sprawling, noisy brasserie that also specializes in sushi, and Raku, a more discreet parlor with two outposts downtown. Much of what distinguishes Hanon, a new udon restaurant steps from the L and G trains in central Williamsburg, has to do with the noodles themselves, which are made thinner than usual, with sharper edges and a consistently springy, al-dente finish…

Image: At Hanon, a small, stylish new restaurant steps from the L and G trains, there are twenty udon dishes on the menu: some served hot, in a powerful, briny broth; some served cold, with dipping sauces; and a few specialty preparations.Photograph by William Mebane for The New Yorker

July 12, 2019